{"id":7316,"date":"2019-08-03T18:02:59","date_gmt":"2019-08-03T16:02:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/cassin-cima-ovest-of-lavaredo\/"},"modified":"2020-05-25T11:55:54","modified_gmt":"2020-05-25T09:55:54","slug":"cassin-cima-ovest-of-lavaredo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/cassin-cima-ovest-of-lavaredo\/","title":{"rendered":"Cassin, Cima Ovest of Lavaredo"},"content":{"rendered":"

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Try to close your eyes and imagine yourself on a foggy day in August 1935. In this imaginary then, think of yourself hanging on a piton of doubtful hold just planted by you, a hemp rope coiled around your waist, the north wall of the West of Lavaredo and two young Germans on their heels. Above you some seemingly inaccessible yellow overhangs (those that were overcome in 1959 becoming the “sSpigolo Scoittoli” route), on your left a thin yellow ledge with rotten rock 350 meters above the ground under which there are impressive overhangs.<\/p>\n

Can you imagine it? If you succeed you are imagining just how Riccardo Cassin found himself belayed by Vittorio Ratti in 1935<\/p>\n

What would you have done? Would you have started to traverse to the left on that slender ledge? And would you have continued, still crossing to the left, if the slender ledge had turned into a horizontal overhang with precarious feet? And would you still have continued to the left if there had been no guarantee of a way out? And would you still continue knowing that a retreat would most likely have been impossible? (Yes, because a retreat after the traverse is crazy today, let alone in 1935)<\/p>\n

Here, I just tried to imagine myself like that, when I stopped with Sara after the 7a pitch and just before the infinite traverse I asked her if she is convinced and sure to continue. I am more tense than her but as a good guide I pretend I am not. Yes, even the guides are afraid but they are much better than others to pretend not to have it. Down below I hope that Sara will tell me that she has had enough of the cosmic void that is below us and that she wants to go down but on the other hand I am really curious to put my hand on a piece of history like this one from 1935 and then wow, it’s past Cassin in 1935 do you want to see me having trouble passing?<\/p>\n

The doubts fortunately vanish in a second and Sara tells me convinced that she is ready to climb the notorious traverse. We continues!<\/p>\n

My heart is beating fast with the tension but luckily the climb is easier than it seems (read pretty tough but not so impossible) and despite the rotten rock and some embarrassing bead I can hold my emotions and run parked after more than 50 meters horizontally. The void under the buttocks is impressive, one of the most exposed routes I have ever done (and I have made some routes).<\/p>\n

Definitely the path where I suffered most of the emptiness… Yes, because if you are in a super precipice and you are climbing vertically, a fall becomes almost pleasant and fun, you are calm knowing that in the void you will never hurt yourself by going to slamming somewhere … But sideways? In a transverse direction is another matter entirely…[\/vc_column_text]

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\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Cassin and Ratti in 1935? Two visionaries… Two fools who wrote a piece of mountaineering history.<\/p>\n

Definitely cannot be defined as a “beautiful” route (climberly speaking) if you don’t like climbing crosswise… But surely the Cassin Ratti to the West of Lavaredo is one of the mountaineering masterpieces of the Dolomites and for this reason it has become a “classic” that absolutely deserves a repeat.<\/p>\n

Cold blood and tranquility (on the void, on the not really healthy rock and on protections of dubious seal) are mandatory<\/p>\n

After the traverse there is still a hard pitch not to be underestimated (VI+). from then on, the difficulties decrease (read, remain on the V continuous) up to the ledge<\/p>\n

Congratulations to Sara for overcoming her fears with climbing traverses \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n

have fun[\/vc_column_text]

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\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator][vc_column_text]For info and a few guided tours,
\ncontact me!<\/a><\/p>\n

See you next adventure!<\/p>\n

Carlo[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

Go back to the Blog index<\/a><\/p>\n

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[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Try to close your eyes and imagine yourself on a foggy day in August 1935. In this imaginary then, think of yourself hanging on a piton of doubtful hold just planted by you, a hemp rope coiled around your waist, the north wall of the West of Lavaredo and two young Germans on their heels. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":6791,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1522,5],"tags":[1525,1517,1535,1525,1519,1530,1529],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7316"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7316"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7316\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8393,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7316\/revisions\/8393"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6791"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7316"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7316"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7316"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}