{"id":7976,"date":"2019-08-27T18:38:34","date_gmt":"2019-08-27T16:38:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/matterhorn-target\/"},"modified":"2020-05-02T19:17:29","modified_gmt":"2020-05-02T17:17:29","slug":"matterhorn-target","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/matterhorn-target\/","title":{"rendered":"Climb the Matterhorn"},"content":{"rendered":"

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The Matterhorn IS and remains the mountain symbol of the Alps, a perfect pyramid that from any side you look at it doesn’t stop you dreaming.<\/p>\n

Climbing this perfect pyramid, however, is not a simple walk and above all it is not for everyone… You must be prepared, trained and above all motivated. To James, my adventure companion for this week, these ingredients are certainly not lacking! He trained hard in Snowdonia (where he comes from in England) and his dream motivates him a lot.<\/p>\n

It’s time to start the Preparation…<\/p>\n

To prepare for the Matterhorn you need training and motivation but a good acclimatization to the altitude (we always talk about 4478 meters) is more than fundamental for the success of this goal and also, another fundamental thing, you need to know your climbing partner<\/p>\n

To achieve this “Matterhorn target” we have a week, seven days of full freedom to wander up and down the most beautiful mountains in the Alps (having a lot of flexibility helps a lot in having a greater chance of reaching the top, both in terms of weather that acclimatization and preparation)<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Voie de l’Y on the Grand Miror de l\u2019Argentiere<\/strong><\/em><\/h5>\n

The weather forecast speaks of a big deterioration in a couple of days and then again stable weather for the rest of the week…<\/p>\n

As a first day, therefore, we opt for a route on rock to be done in the day for warming up and to get to know each other<\/p>\n

We climbed the beautiful Y route on the Grand Miror de l’Argentiere, a fantastic limestone slab that became famous to me for the ascent of Marcel Remy to the beauty of 94 years<\/a> after having climbed it about 200 times since the opening to date… ” climbing so many times it will mean that it is wonderful “I thought… In fact, apart from the long and steep approach, the route really deserves, a ride of 400 meters that we smoked in a few hours, which gave me confirmation of James’ excellent preparation and physical fitness[\/vc_column_text]

\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n
Lagginhorn South Ridge<\/strong><\/em><\/h5>\n

I love the “Matterhorn stage weeks<\/a>” because they give me absolute freedom to decide (in preparation) what to do and where to go and therefore I always take advantage of it to discover new places<\/p>\n

It was a long time since I wanted to climb the south ridge of the Lagginhorn and so taking advantage of the bad weather announced we climbed under the flood to the Weissmieshutte refuge hopeful in the favorable weather for the next day<\/p>\n

waking up in the fog discourages us a bit and the lack of desire to get out of the warm and welcoming refuge slows down our departure a bit but after an initial moment of perdition the motivation of our goals comes back on, takes laziness off us and after a couple of hours of darkness and fog we arrived at the pass (Lagginjoch, the start of the ridge) rewarded with one of the most beautiful sunrises of the summer (the weather had promised it) with low clouds and we, so small and insignificant able to fly over it… a show!<\/p>\n

The route is really beautiful on excellent granite and the snow, which fell the day before, was little and only towards the summit<\/p>\n

With the first 4000 in the bag, we went back to the car and decided for our future[\/vc_column_text]

\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n
Matterhorn from the Hornli Ridge<\/strong><\/em><\/h5>\n

James is so excited about his goal, he wants to go “big”, he wants to climb the Matterhorn. Regarding the weather and the decision was made, we went to Zermatt<\/p>\n

I remember how it was yesterday the first time I climbed the Matterhorn as a guide for work. It was my first year as a Mountain guide (at the top I started to cry with emotion). 3 years have passed since that time and I remember the tension and fear I had. The image of the opening moment of the doors of the Hornli refuge remained impressed in my mind. A crazy fight with the Swiss guides first in the row and the others behind… a vertical race against everyone… Since that time I climbed the Matterhorn as a guide 4 more times and I never think I will get tired of climbing a mountain like this, getting to the top has always a crazy emotion. And the brawl of departure!? That is always there but it makes the climb even more exciting.<\/p>\n

Breakfast 3.30 opening doors 3.50 who is there, is there, the rest behind.<\/p>\n

We started in the dark and after exactly 2 hours we were at 4003 meters at the Solvay Hut, with the first ray of sunshine, in perfect timetable! The local guides give the approximate time for the climb and tell you that if you arrive in Solvay hut in more than 2h30 you have to turn back and go down… This is the rule (unwritten) to make the climb as “safe” as possible.<\/p>\n

At Solvay you don’t stop long, just enough time for a bar and a sip of water. We climbed fast up to the first fixed rope where we put the crampons (the conditions of the wall are excellent if you arrive, as in our case, up to the fixed ropes without snow) and in exactly 4 hours from the departure (from the Hornli refuge) we were at the top. The excitement on top of this mountain is always great and the beers in Zermatt after the climb are always a pleasure… Congratulations James![\/vc_column_text]

\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n
Half Traverse of Breithorn<\/strong><\/em><\/h5>\n

The “goal” of the week was achieved in a big way but there ere still two days available… no stopping!<\/p>\n

We take advantage of the first day as an “active rest” going up in the early afternoon (after a royal breakfast in Zermatt) with the facilities at the Kleine Matterhorn and then we reach the Guide Del Cervino refuge. From there we started on the second day with, as usual, the headlamps in the direction of the Breithorn\u00a0<\/span>Traverse.<\/p>\n

In 2 weeks of heat the conditions for the crossing have changed a lot… 2 weeks ago<\/a> I climbed it in more than perfect conditions but today the glistening ice that covers the entire climb to the Roccia Nera doesn’t encourage us and we therefore decide to change the plan and make the “Half Traverse” or the Central Breithorn – Western Breithorn crossing (which is however the most beautiful and technical part of the entire crossing).<\/p>\n

After a bit of ugly crevass we climbed the snowy wall to the Selle (4022m) and from there along the second half of the original traverse. Central Breithorn (4159m) and Western Breithorn (4164m).[\/vc_column_text]

\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div>
\"\"<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Congratulations and thanks to James for this fabulous week!!!<\/p>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator][vc_column_text]For information regarding the ascents on the Matterhorn click here<\/a><\/p>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator][vc_column_text]For info and a few guided tours
\ncontact me<\/a>!<\/p>\n

See you next adventure!<\/p>\n

Carlo[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

Go back to the Blog index<\/a><\/p>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The Matterhorn IS and remains the mountain symbol of the Alps, a perfect pyramid that from any side you look at it doesn’t stop you dreaming. Climbing this perfect pyramid, however, is not a simple walk and above all it is not for everyone… You must be prepared, trained and above all motivated. To James, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":7938,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1522],"tags":[1895,1725,1729,1891,1898,1519,1733],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7976"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7976"}],"version-history":[{"count":29,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7976\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8035,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7976\/revisions\/8035"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7938"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7976"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7976"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7976"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}