![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.carlocosi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/DSC09673.jpg\")
<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Day 2: the second day begins at the first light of dawn, retracing the last steps of the day before in the direction of the Castore crossing<\/p>\nIf you are acclimatized enough, you feel fit and you are a good team, before Castore you can climb the Pollux for its beautiful and rocky south\/west ridge (the normal route, passages of rade II and chains in the steepest stretch). After the rocky ridge you climb the sharp snowy ridge to the top. From the top you retrace your steps and retrace the entire ridge (possibility of 2 rappels on the stretch with chains) back to the traks of Castore<\/p>\n
Another possibility of descent from Pollux (perhaps more beautiful) is to cross the east ridge up to the Zwillingsjoch which, however, is a much less equipped and certainly more demanding route than the normal route (possibility of 2 abseils)<\/p>\n
The ascent to Castore varies from day to day depending on the season, passing from a “very easy excursion” on snow (at the beginning of the season overlapping with the ski mountaineering season) to become a challenging climb on ice with several crevasses to circumvent and steep slopes to overcome (forward in season). So don’t underestimate it, especially the exposed and beautiful final ridge<\/p>\n
From the top, continue on the beautiful and airy east ridge, passing Punta Felik to Felikhorn and then descending along the Felix glacier to the Quintino Sella Refuge[\/vc_column_text]
<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Day 3: the protagonist of the third day is the Naso del Lyskamm and its spectacular crossing is the most technical part of the entire spaghetti tour<\/p>\nThis section is also very dependent on the conditions, after the first “mixed” section (some bolts) the slope becomes steeper 50\u00b0 and can change from snow to ice from one day to the next. This summer, for example, I rode it 3 times and I went from tackling it in shortrope almost with my “hands in my pockets” (first week of July after a snowfall) until I tackled it with short pitches on bleau ice making belays on icescrews (bring 3\/4 icescrews for this section if the conditions are on ice) after this section (100m) the slope flattens (some iron bars planted on the ice) and soon reaches the ridge and then to the summit of Naso (4272m)<\/p>\n
The descent from the Naso also depends a lot on the conditions but in general it is advisable to descend once you have descended the first slope to a snowy hill from the “rocks” (in the direction of the Gnifetti refuge to be clear) to the Lys glacier. If, on the other hand, the snow is settled and it is not too hot from the snowy hill, you can go down to the left (faster) on the snowy slope (towards the Lys hill to be clear) which takes you steeply to the Lys glacier.<\/p>\n
From the Lys glacier you go around the large crevasses (climbing towards the Colle del Lys up to almost 4000 meters) until you reach the large and always popular track that from Gnifetti climbs to Colle del Lys. From here if you have more energy you can go up to the Pyramid Vincent 4215m before descending to the Gnifetti Refuge<\/p>\n
Capanna Gnifetti is the best refuge in the Western Alps not only for the super helpful and friendly staff, but above all for the gastronomic quality (seeing is believing)[\/vc_column_text]
<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Day 4: We are now acclimatized after 3 nights above 3500 and 5 peaks of 4000 meters and then the fourth day is dedicated to the great feast of 4000 meters<\/p>\nAfter passing the Colle del Lys, climb in sequence the Zumstainspitze (4562m), the Capanna Margherita at Punta Gnifetti (4554m) where a break is a must to relax for a moment and treat yourself to the highest pizza (excellent) in Europe. Then continue with the crossing of the Parrot peak (4443 m), the Ludwigshohe (4344 m), the Corno Nero (4322 m) and finally the Balmenhorn or Cristo delle peaks (4167 m) before returning to the excellent cuisine of the Capanna Gnifetti[\/vc_column_text]
<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Day 5: with the fifth and last day we climb the last 4000 of this fantastic traverse<\/p>\nIt starts downhill towards the Mantova refuge (you can also stay overnight here instead of at Gnifetti) and from here in about 3 hours (less since you will be super acclimatized) you go up to the Madonna of Punta Giordani (4046m) ending the crossing at Punta Indren where with the cable car you go down to Gressoney (Staffal)<\/p>\n
From Staffal the shuttle service takes you back to Cervinia (+393484458175). Call him 2\/3 days in advance to book it and maybe the night before to confirm the time. Remember that the Gressoney cable cars take their lunch break so go to their website to check the times.[\/vc_column_text]
<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>[vc_column_text]NOTE<\/strong><\/p>\nThe Spaghetti Tour in its classic version includes the descent from Capanna Margherita to Monte Rosa H\u00fctte, crossing the long and spectacular Grenz Glacier. In this case, the stop at the Monterosahutte for the fourth night must be calculated on day 5 to reach the Riffelsee lake and the Rotenboden station, where you take the Gornergrat train to Zermatt. Cross the village on foot and with the Klein Matterhorn lifts you can reach the Plateau Rosa slopes, from here easily to the Testa Grigia lifts to descend to Cervinia.<\/p>\n
Despite the difficulties of the climbs in the Spaghetti Tour do not reach the AD and are almost always on snow, the itinerary presents some criticalities, exposed and steep sections that require sure-footedness as well as a minimum of experience in glacier progression (in particular for those who does not intend to rely on a mountain guide). For an expert and prepared team (2 people max), the itinerary can even offer very interesting variants (conditions permitting), such as the crossing of the Lyskamm in place of the Naso, and the ascent of the normal Italian to the Dufourspitze combined with the Nordend if you opt for the descent to Monterosahutte and Zermatt.<\/p>\n
The best time<\/strong> to take the Spaghetti Tour is at the beginning of the summer season, from the end of June until the end of July, when the crevasses are generally closed, the crests of snow and the steep slopes are covered with snow.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator][vc_column_text]For info and a few adventures together, See you next adventure!<\/p>\n Carlo[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n
\ncontact me!<\/a><\/p>\n