La Danza del Tapiro and I Gladiatori, Tofana di Rozes
Back in Tofana and again on the routes of the Mox (Massimo da Pozzo)
This time, first with Aldo and then with Sara I went to discover the routes that start from the “Grotta della Tofana” (Cave of Tofana)
Both routes are bolted in the typical Mox style (few and far, but always in the right place) so absolutely to be repeated only if you master the degree
With Sara I repeated “La Danza del Tapiro”
A route opened by Mox in 2001 and which climbs 50 meters to the left of the Grotta della Tofana
The first pitch (6b+) starts violently on a well-held overanging (tou need to warm up your biceps well before leaving)
the second pitch starts a little unprotected until the first pitons (with cord) that is not seen from the belay. From there continue straight on the slab until the second bolt and don’t look for the left dihedral (6c+)
The third pitch ends on the ledge and to get to the belay of the 7a+ clip an old belay (via Svicka opened by Coubal in 94) and you can see the right belay on the left above another ledge.
The key movement of the 7a+ is at the third bolt and a good hidden crimp makes it easier (but finding it’s not so obvious)
subsequent pitches are very intuitive (some not very solid blocks to be careful of)
Overall a nice route to go (like all the routes of the Mox) only with margin
A couple of days before “La Danza del Tapiro”, with Aldo da Vià, I went to repeat “I Gladiatori”
“I Gladiatori” starts right from the Cave della Tofana, from a crack about ten meters to the right and rises right above the Cave of Tofana
The first pitch is the hardest (7b tough) with two key passage: a traverse to the right after a pink tricam and, the hardest movement, on the last bolt where the dangling cord should be clipped and (forget the bolt) traversave towards right on some crimps and then return to the left to the belay. Mox (Massimo da Pozzo) gave the grade going straight but in my opinion (straight) it is much more than 7b (on the right 7b is right)
The second pitch starts sideways on a crack under an overhang with the first bolt spaced far (it’s easier than it seems). At the second bolt cross completely to the left before going straight to the third. The fourth bolt cannot be seen immediately, it is all to the right and can be reached by going straight up from the third bolt and crossing completely right (towards the unknown) a few meters above
The two 6c later are beautiful on super rock here too, bolts distant and to be found)
Arrived on the ledge we were forced to descend (I was late for a job) and therefore we did not make the last 3 pitches (6a, 6c, V) but we will be back… also because the first pitch fooled me and I was unable to do it on sight
The routes of Mox are always a guarantee of engagement
