I am Carlo
Carlo Cosi
Mountain Guide UIAGM
I was born in Padova the 15th November 1988, I’m used to go to the mountain since I was a child thanks to my parents. Its due to their passion that I could have the fortune to travel in those wonderful location summer and winter. I learned to ski early in age, in the first picture of me skiing I was 4 years old in a place I still love to go to, Carezza in front of Ronda di Vael!
The love for climbing was a little but slower to grow in me. I started with my dad who used to take me during summer afternoons in Rocca Pendice Cliff. I actually felled in love with climbing when I was 14 years old when my father took me to my first real mountain route: the “Via delle Guide” in 5 Torri.
I then started to climb more often, starting to attend climbing courses at Brentelle park in Padova, organized by Alpine Guides. Here I met some friends with whom I still love to go to climbing and skiing.
I used to play another wonderful sport, Rugby, but when I was 16 years old I chose to quit to concentrate to my new and deep passion: the mountain.
I started climbing near home, in Rocca Pendice e Lumigliano, I used to go there after school to spend all my afternoons climbing. Then I begin to explore the grate paradise of Alps, from Monte Bianco to Monte Rosa, to the group of Ortles, Cevedale ecc. summer and winter, loving most the Dolomites.
During my last year in high school I became climbing instructor (FASI) and I understood that being a Alpine Guide would be my future and I started to prepare to this difficult training path. The preparation was made of lots of sacrifices but mostly of satisfactions. After high school I begin to study at University of Padova, and in February 2011, having accomplished the requires alpines curriculum, I was able to enter the Course for Alpine Guides.
I graduated in November 2011 in Physical Education and Sport Sciences at the University of Padova and in September 2012, after two years of training and efforts, I realised my dream becoming an Aspirant Alpine Guide. It was needed two year and a half of exams and traineeship to become an official UIAGM Mountain Guide. I was 26 years old.
“And now I’d like to share my passion to everybody who choose me as adventure buddy!”
THE PROFESSION OF A MOUNTAIN GUIDE
The Mountain Guide is the only professional figure internationally recognised and qualified for teaching and guiding in the mountains. His role is to instil, in whom who starts to approach to the mountain in a healthy and peaceful way, the deep and conscious relation with the all its various aspects. He works all year in the mountains because he operates in all activities linked to alpinism, both summer and winter activities so it’s fundamental to be able to transmit the experience and familiarity with the mountain in all its seasons.
If you choose to travel with an Mountain Guide you will find both a prepared specialist and a friend able to guide you in every kind of climbing, technically prepared to face all the possible conditions of the chosen route. He is able to advise you, giving you the physical help and mental comfort to pass over the most difficult obstacles. Above all, the Mountain Guide is the one aware of all the risks, able to give to everyone the sense of safety and to understand when it’s not possible to go further.
Obtain the degree as “Mountain Guide– Teacher of Alpinism” is a four year long and hard path, equivalent to an actual University of Mountaineering where you can learn how to guide people in any kind of mountain land, guaranteeing safety in every moment! To access this long training path an adequate curriculum of alpine experiences is fundamental. After having accomplished the courses and the exams you obtain the title of Aspirant Alpine Guide, than you need two year and a half of traineeship and almost 20 days of final exams to become an authorized Italian Alpine Guide. The training doesn’t end there, it is compulsory to have continuous refreshes to maintain the standards of preparation and competence. The profession of Mountain Guide is regulated by Italian Low n. 6 2nd January 1989 “Ordinamento della professione di Guida Alpina” which declares that Mountain Guide is the only professional figure qualified to guide in all different mountain fields and to teach alpinist techniques.
Alpinist Curriculum
More than 500 rock routes, alpinist routes up to IX grade, modern routes up to 8a grade including the opening of these routes:
“Mostro Turco” (650m, 8a e A1) in the Tranga Tower in Aladaglar Turkey;
“Kif&Cliff” (600m, 7b+/c) in the uncontaminated north side of Agnangou n’ Tissofra;
“Laurapaq” and “la zuppa di Pio” at Jurauraju 5330m in Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru climbed at first sight up to 8a and 7b+ grade.
More than 100 ice routes, ice waterfall climbed up to 6- grades, modern mixed routes up to M8 grade and alpinist ice routes up to ED grades including the opening of:
“The Big One” (ED V M7 5+ 700m) in the north side of Buinz, group of Montasio in Alta Val Spragna;
“La Siesta del Bodacious” (TD+ V M4 4+ 600m) in Jurau 5674m in Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru, for this route I was candidate for the Piolet d’Or 2015 and Grigetta d’Oro.
More than 500 alpinist ski excursion and traverse up to OSA, ski of canals up to 60° including the descend as first trier of the Oppel in Antelao, the second trier of the north side of Gran Vernel and second ranked in the finale I-FREE of Freeride in Sella Nevea in 2013.
Climbing Routes
“Paolo VI” Tofana di Rozes (IX 500m) on sight
“Moulin Rouge” Roda di Vael (IX- 400m) on sight
“W Messico Cabrones” Civetta (VIII 1000m)
“Voyage Selon Gulliver” Gran Capicin, M.Bianco (VIII+ 400m)
“Hasse Brandler” Tre Cime di Lavaredo (VIII, 500) on sight
“Carlesso” Torre Trieste Civetta (VIII+ 600m)
“Via dei 5 Muri” Vallaccia (VIII 500m ) on sight
“Cassin” Torre Trieste Civetta (VIII 600m) on sight
“La Bissa” Val di Mello (VIII 250m)
“Carlesso” Torre Valgrande Civetta (VIII- 500m)
“Diedro Casarotto” Pale di San Lucano (VII+ 1300m)
“Tempi Moderni” Marmolada (VII+ 800m)
“Lacedelli” Cima Scotoni (VIII 450m)
“Costantini Apollonio” Tofana di Rozes (VII+ 500m)
“KCF “ Bosconero (VII+ 600m)
“Equipe 64 “ 2° Torre del Camp, Moiazza (VII+ 300m)
“Spigolo Strobel” Bosconero (VII 700m)
“Comici” Tre Cime di Lavaredo (VII 500m)
“Wonderful” Torre Jolanda, Moiazza (VII 200m)
“KundaLuna” Val di Mello (VII 700m)
“Oceano Irrazionale” Val di Mello (VII 500m)
“Via degli Svizzeri” Gran Capicin, M.Bianco (VII 350m)
“Laurapaq” (V+ 800m) New route, Jurauraju 5330m, Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru
“la zuppa di Pio” (IV+ 650m) New route, Jurauraju 5330m, Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru
Alpinism
“Supercanaleta” (ED V+, 85°, 1600m) Fitz Roy, Patagonia
“The Big One” (ED V M7 5+ 700m) New route on the North face of Buinz
“Super Couloir” (ED IV M6 5 800m) Mont Blanc du Tacul
“La Siesta del Bodacious” (TD+ V M4 4+ 600m) New route on the SW face of Jurau 5674m, Cordillera Huayhuash, Perù.
“Senza Chiedere il Permesso” Nord Face
Adamello (TD+ V/M6/5 800m)
“Whillans-Cochrane” (TD+ V+, 70°, M4, 550m) Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia
“Pippo Frasson” (TD+ M5 80°, 300m) Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
“Fantasia per un Ghiaciatore” Mont Maudit (TD+ V/M/5 350m)
“Filo d’Arianna” Mont Maudit (TD+ 5/III 350m)
“Couloir Mistica” Torre Innerkofler (TD+ 4+/IV+ 500m)
“Couloir dell’H” Monte Nero (D+ 4/M4 400m)
“Clean Gully” Torre Innerkofler (TD+ 4/IV+ M4 500m)
“Goulotte Pellissier” Punta Lachenal, Monte Bianco (TD+ III/4/M5 250m)
“Mayerl Ramp” Grossglockner (TD 70°/IV 1400m)
“Vajo Super Mosca” Cima Mosca, Piccole Dolomiti (TD VI M6 70° 300m)
“Goulotte Rebuffat” Tour Ronde (TD 4/III M4 350m)
“Goulotte Chère” Triangle du Tacul, Monte Bianco (TD II / 4 600m)
“Canalone Oppel” Cima Antelao (D+ 60° / IV 600m)
“Parete Nord” Tour Ronde, Monte Bianco (D 60° / III 500m)
“Kuffner” Mont Maudit, Monte Bianco (D 55° / IV 800m)
“Faustinelli” Presanella (D 60° / II 550m)
Sport Climbing Routes
“Mostro Turco” New route, West face of Lower Guvercinlik, Ala Daglar (Turchia) (650m, 8a (2pA1-nl), 7b+ obl, S3+.)
“Kif&Cliff” (7c, 600m) New route on the unclimbed North face of Agnanbou n’ Tissofra, Marocco
“Cara” Val Gadena (7c 250m)
“Giochi di Equilibri” Brentino (7c+ 170m)
“Radio Eksen” Aladaglar Turchia (7c, 200m) on sight
“Les Rivieres Pourpres” Taoujidad Marocco (7b+, 500m)
“Sognando l’Aurora” Tofana di Rozes (7b+, 600m)
“Zebda” Taoujidad Marocco (7b+, 300m)
“Come to Derwish” Aladaglar Turchia (7b, 600m)
“Tridentina” Mur del Pissadù, Sella (7b 300m)
“Prinz” Piz Ciavazzes (7b 300m)
“Piastrine Selvagge” Brentino (7b 170m)
“Tranxène 5” Verdon (7b 100m)
“Parmigiano Reggiano” Piz Ciavazzes (7a+ 300m)
“ISO 2000” Tre Cime di Lavaredo (7a+ 500m)
“Capitani Coraggiosi” Pan di Zucchero (Sardegna) (7a+ 200m)
“Au Delà Du Delire” Verdon (7a+ 180m)
“Les Marches Du Temps” Verdon (7a 200m)
“sole incantatore” Cala Golorizzè (Sardegna) (6c 150m)
Ice Falls
“Di fronte al Tradimento” Cogne, (6-/III 220m)
“Adrenalina” Marmolada, (5+/III 140m)
“Cattedrale ramo sx” Sottoguda (5+/II 100m)
“Sogno canadese” Val Travenanzes, (5/III 200m)
“Il fallo di plutone” Cogne, (5/II 200m)
“Chandelle Louvre” Cogne,(5/II 180m)
“Solo per pochi” Colfosco, (5/II 110m)
“Spirale della contingenza” Sottoguda (5/II 100m)
“Spada nella Roccia Sottoguda (5//II 50m)
Vie di misto a Sottoguda fino all’M8+
Steep Skiing
“Canalone Oppel” Antelao (S5+ 60°) first ski descent
“North-West face” Gran Vernel (S5+ 60°) second descent after Tone Valeruz
“Piz Serauta” Marmolada (S5+ 60°)
“diretta Nord” Piz da Lech (S5+ 55°/60°) second descent
“parete Nord” Tour Ronde (S5 55°)
“Vallençan”, Cristallo (S5 55°)
“Parete Nord”, Punta Penia Marmolada (S5 55°)
“Couloir Macho”, Col du Diable (S5 50°)
“Staunies”, Cristallo (S5 50°)
“Canale Holzer”, Sella (S5 50°)
“Canale Larsei”, Sella (S5 50°)
“via normale” Civetta (S5 50°)
“Menini” Antelao (S5 50°)
“Canale nord” Bureloni Pale di San Martino (S5 50°)