Brouillard Integral Ridge
Brouillard Integral Ridge: an adventure on Mont Blanc
Some adventures begin with a déjà-vu.
Exactly one year ago (the day this adventure began is July 4) I was climbing the same via ferrata ladders that lead to the Monzino Refuge, in the heart of the Mont Blanc massif. That time, our objective was the Peuterey Ridge; this time, we returned to the same corner of the mountains to tackle its parallel sister: the Brouillard Integral Ridge.
A long, wild and demanding route, crossing some of the most spectacular ridges on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, touching three 4,000-meter peaks before reaching the summit.
From the Monzino Refuge to the start of the Brouillard Ridge
This time, we won’t be spending the night in the welcoming Monzino Refuge. We set off at 6 in the morning from the Val Veny car park and will stop at the refuge only for a second breakfast: a good cappuccino and a slice of cake before starting the real adventure.
From Monzino, we cross the Brouillard Glacier at its base, until we easily reach the access couloir leading to the ridge.
We climb it in four rope pitches, equipped with bolts, and then continue moving together over scree terrain and sections of ridge until we finally reach the main line of the route.
This variation allows us to avoid the steep grassy slopes, which are difficult to protect, of the actual integral route. I couldn’t say whether it is necessarily the best option, but for those who want to break up the ascent by spending the night at the Monzino Refuge (in hindsight, perhaps it would have been a good idea for us too!) it certainly represents an excellent alternative.
The Pilier Rouge, the Col du Brouillard and the Aiguille du Brouillard
Once we reach the ridge, a seemingly endless traverse begins.
First the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard, then the Col du Brouillard and finally the climb towards the Aiguille du Brouillard, at 3.792 metres.
It’s 19:00. After thirteen hours on the move, this is our first proper break of the day. We stop, melt some snow to prepare water and finally treat ourselves to dinner.
An hour of rest, just enough time to regain a little energy, and at 20:00, feeling well refreshed, we decide to set off again.
The goal is to reach at least the first four-thousander of our adventure: Punta Baretti, at 4.013 metres.
From here, with a few abseils, we reach the spot we have chosen for our bivouac. It’s now 22:00. We pull out our sleeping bags and literally collapse into sleep.
Day two: Mont Brouillard, Col Émile Rey, Luigi Amedeo Peak and the summit of Mont Blanc
The alarm goes off at 4:00 in the morning.
We prepare some tea and breakfast, melt more snow to stock up on water and, with the first light of dawn, set off again.
A piece of advice for anyone wishing to repeat this route: navigating in the dark is not particularly easy and the terrain is often extremely unstable and rotten. It’s best to make the most of daylight as much as possible. This was precisely why, after dinner at 19:00, we decided to keep going until 22:00: in early July, there are still plenty of daylight hours and it’s worth taking advantage of them.
With the first rays of the sun beginning to warm us up, we reach the summit of the second 4,000-meter peak of the ascent, Mont Brouillard, 4.069 meters.
From here, we quickly reach Col Émile Rey, where one of the most challenging sections of the entire climb begins.
A steep chimney-crack, with verglas and ice, gives us a real wake-up call. With a nice A0 move on a green cam, I manage to get through it without too many problems!
The difficulties don’t ease, but we manage to make progress more consistently.
The heat of this decidedly unusual season, however, has completely melted the snow in the couloir leading to Luigi Amedeo Peak. We are therefore forced to climb directly over rocky outcrops and sand, on extremely unstable and crumbly terrain.
With a good eye, plenty of patience and a few moves that require careful consideration, we finally reach the summit of Luigi Amedeo Peak at 11:00, 4.460 meters.
The summit of Mont Blanc now seems so close, almost within reach.
But fatigue is beginning to set in and, above all, the ridge is still long. It’s not time to celebrate just yet.
A rappel, another challenging section of climbing and then more ups and downs, following a ridge that continues to throw rotten terrain and tricky passages our way.
We finally reach the summit of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, 4.748 meters.
From there, just one last stretch and at 16:00 we are finally on the summit of Mont Blanc, 4.810 meters.
What a dream!
Brouillard Integral Ridge: an adventure difficult to describe
There are adventures that are difficult to describe.
I try every time. Sometimes with words, more often with a camera, hoping to convey even just a fraction of what you experience up there.
But the truth is that neither images nor words can truly do justice to certain experiences.
This is one of them.
A long journey, indeed, very long. Intense, filled with effort, concentration, silence, and moments that remain etched in your memory. An adventure that empties you and, at the same time, fills you, leaving you with that feeling that only the great mountains can give.
There are climbs that aren’t measured simply in meters or technical difficulty. They’re measured in the emotions you take home with you.
The Brouillard Integral Ridge is one of them.
It’s not just about adding three more four-thousanders to the list—Punta Baretti, Mont Brouillard, and Picco Luigi Amedeo—but above all about what this climb represents: a shared experience made up of a few gestures, a few words, and a lot of passion.
An adventure lived side by side that, step by step, is making a friendship born in the mountains even stronger.
Jon, you’re a force of nature!
Thank you for trusting me once again with one of your crazy projects. It’s a privilege to share these adventures with someone like you.
See you next time… which, knowing you, will surely be even crazier! 💪
I Love my Job! 😍
Technical Details
- Route: Brouillard Integral Ridge
- Mountain: Mont Blanc – 4,810 m
- Starting point: Val Veny (parking area, approx. 1,560 m)
- Bivouac: Along the ridge, beyond Punta Baretti
- Main points: Rifugio Monzino – Brouillard Glacier – Pilier Rouge du Brouillard – Aiguille du Brouillard – Punta Baretti – Mont Brouillard – Col Émile Rey – Picco Luigi Amedeo – Mont Blanc de Courmayeur – Mont Blanc
- Difficulty: D
- Time required: 2–3 days (Val Veny → Mont Blanc summit)
- Recommended season: Summer, with stable weather and good mountain conditions