I Love my Dogs and Re Artù, climbing on Lastoni di Formin
I Love my Dogs and Re Artù are two spectacular routes on the south faces of the Lastoni di Formin
Both routes, opened by the legendary Mario Dibona (Moro), offer unique climbing on spectacular rock with breathtaking views of the Pelmo and Mondeval.
The excellent and abundant bolting make them both a must to go and have fun
below photos and reports
For the approach, you go up to the Forcella Giau (path 436); from here you climb directly to the base of the wall, 45 minutes
I Love my Dogs
1st pitch – 5b 30m slab
2nd pitch – 6c + 30m technique and beautiful slightly overhanging yellow slab I joined it in one pitch with the first
3rd pitch – 6c 30m gray slab with overhang
4th pitch – 6a 33m fun slab
5th pitch – 6b 32m beautiful vertical slab
6 ° pitch – 6a + 48m exciting dihedral with final vertical slab. Unlike all the other pitches, the start is not bolted, the first piton is 4/5 meters from the ledge along the dihedral (it’s easy not to worry) and from there on you can see the bolts that return abundant
7th pitch – 6c + / 7a 35m slab with roof and vertical crack. the key hold of the pitch is above the roof and is an incredible hole in the middle of a slab with no grips … it seems to have been put on purpose (beautiful passage)
Pitch 8 – 5b 22m slab with final overhang
Pitch 9 – 5b 20m vertical crack-dihedral and exit (I joined it with pitch 8)
Re Artù
1st pitch – 40 m, 5 + / 6a. Above the first bolt you cross a difficult overhang (second bolt), then continue along a simpler cracked ramp, but with a distant bolt. The belay is on a bolt with a ring.
2nd pitch – 35 m, 6a. You pass the slab above the belay, then to the left with a more difficult steep passage and then up to the belay on easier terrain. Belay on a bolt with a ring.
3rd pitch – 35 m, 5+. Nice compact rock slab. Belay on a bolt with a ring.
4th pitch – 35 m, 5. Go directly over the slab above to an easy area with gravel closed at the top by a gray block that you pass on the left; then walk right up to the belay at the base of the dihedral. Belay on a bolt with ring.
5th pitch – 35 m, 5 + / 6a. Climb the beautiful cracked dihedral and exit to the right on a small ledge. Traverse to the right and overcome a small cracked overhang. Belay on two bolts.
6th pitch – 45m, 6b. Steep long slab of compact rock with hard, well protected step in the first part. (12/13 bolts). Belay on a bolt with a ring.
7th pitch – 20 m, 6a. Steep start on yellow rock, then to the right on a cracked slab until you exit to the right on the ledge. Belay on a bolt with a ring. (On the right you can see the “Love My Dogs” bolts)
Pitch 8 – 30 m, 6a +. Another nice sustained length, similar to 6. Difficult start to the right of the belay, then to the left towards the edge and again to the right on the next athletic cracked blade. Belay on a bolt with a ring.
Pitch 9 – 35 m, 5. Go to the left of the pillar next to the belay and then go straight up. Belay on a bolt with a ring.
10th pitch – 40 m, 4/5. After the steep start, continue on gradually easier terrain up to the top of the wall. Stop on a golden bolt before the summit, or 10 m above on the top of the wall (spike).
