il Vecchio Leone e la Giovane Fifona, Tofana
“Il Vecchio Leone e la Giovane Fifona” in Tofana di Rozes is a beautiful and fun route opened by the Mox (Massino da Pozzo)
It is located on the first pillar of the Tofana to the left of one of his other great classic routes (Aspettando la Vetta) and to the right of the “Primo Spigolo della Tofana” (Alverà Pompanin 1946)
Il Vecchio Leone e la Giovane Fifona is a bolt route up to 7a and like all the routes of the Mox you have to go a little firm and calm between one bolt and the other. Although this is one of the better bolted routes of Mox, you can bring some medium-small friends anyway
the rock of this route is wonderful but in any case some unstable notch I managed to find it, we are still in the Dolomites
The first pitch is certainly the most physical with the exit of the roof to be blocked a lot low up to the good grip (if you are tall you make things easier but still well protected)
The third pitch (6b) is wonderful, a vertical plate with the best rock on the route
The fourth pitch on paper is the hardest (6c + / 7a) … you leave the rotten ropes of the right roof (via Ferrari Sioli) and go on the yellow plate on the left (easy 6a) until you then move slightly to the right on notches, a nice shot that is not difficult to guess on sight.
The seventh and final pitch is aesthetically beautiful and climbs on an edge on yellow rock (not always very beautiful) and then crosses to the right with an athletic pass (6b)
Double descent (the first two doubles and the third and fourth are combined)
A beautiful adventure with Sara that taking advantage of the high pressure and the long days of July we climbed the afternoon after work. We attacked at 5 and started the double at 8 … at 9 without having turned on the front we were in the car. A super adventure!
