From July 28 to August 14, I had the privilege of accompanying Marco and Emanuela on an extraordinary journey through the most fascinating mountains of Peru.
It was an intense experience — filled with effort, emotion, and breathtaking landscapes — culminating in the ascent of Alpamayo (5,947 m), the most elegant mountain in the Andes.

From Italy to the Heart of the Cordillera Blanca

We departed from Milan, bound for Lima, and from there a long bus ride took us to Huaraz, the starting point for every adventure in the Cordillera Blanca.
Before tackling our main objective, we devoted some time to essential acclimatization, allowing us to adapt to the altitude and test our equipment.

Acclimatization: Among Turquoise Lagoons and First Summits
Our first trek took us to Laguna Churup (4,450 m), a magical place set among rocks and ice.
The following day, starting early from Huaraz, we climbed Pico Mateo (5,150 m).
Even though the weather wasn’t perfect and denied us the spectacular view this peak is known for, we still earned our first 5,000-meter summit of the trip — a small but rewarding achievement.

Yanapaccha – 5,460 meters

After Pico Mateo, we set off toward the first real summit of the expedition — Yanapaccha, a true test before facing Alpamayo.
We spent a night at base camp, around 4,800 meters, surrounded by a landscape of stars and silence.

The day of the ascent began early, and by the first light of dawn — painting the mountain walls with soft colors — we reached the summit.
The climb was steady, with steep sections and icy passages that had us working hard with ice axes and crampons.

It was an important moment for the group: the first true summit.
From the top, the view over the Cordillera Blanca was simply spectacular — a mix of effort and pure happiness, the kind only the mountains can offer.

Toward Alpamayo: The Dream Draws Closer

After a well-deserved day of rest, we began the approach toward Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m).
Over two days of trekking — through wild valleys and shimmering glaciers — we finally stood before our mountain.

On August 7, we reached the high camp (5,400 m), already facing some demanding sections and two pitches of ice where both ice axes proved essential.
The sunset from that spot was simply unforgettable — perhaps the most beautiful of my life.

The Summit of Alpamayo

On August 8, we woke up at 2 a.m. and set off under a clear sky.
The first hours were silent, illuminated only by our headlamps and the stars.
By 8 in the morning, we stood on the summit, wrapped in golden light and the smiles of those who know they’ve made it.

The altitude was definitely felt, but the satisfaction of being there — with Marco and Manuela, both incredibly strong and always smiling — was immense.
For me, as a mountain guide, it was a moment of pride and gratitude.

We descended using double ropes back to base camp.
During the night, the weather changed, and it began to snow at 4,300 meters.
We were incredibly lucky — had the storm arrived a day earlier, we wouldn’t have reached the summit.
That’s what the mountains are about: experience, preparation, and, above all, a touch of good fortune.

A Journey That Stays in the Heart
After one last long day of trekking, we returned to “civilization,” tired but happy.
Alpamayo gave us everything: effort, beauty, friendship, and that unique feeling of being part of the mountain.
An unforgettable journey — one to cherish forever.

A special thank you to Ector, our cook and porter, and to Miguel, who organized the logistics flawlessly.

Congratulations to Marco and Emanuela, who fulfilled their dream — and mine as well.
Thank you for trusting me and believing in me throughout this project.