Excalibur, Marmolada
The Excalibur route in Marmolada is certainly one of the most beautiful routes I’ve ever done, at least so far.
This piece of art with dream rock and truly superlative pitches I repeat it with the legendary Nicolò Geremia who after a long time finally become my climbing partner again
Excalibur was opened in 1993 by the champion Maurizio Giordani who like his other routes had the audacity to attack such a wall without the help of bolts.
A route as beautiful as it is demanding, not so much for the difficulties (7a + max) but for the mountaineering and psychological component.
There are very few pitons (10 pitons of passage), you have to have a good margin on the 7a and you have to have a lot of eye to understand well where to pass and where to place friends or tricams (very useful)
The recent outing in Ceuse (the cliff of dreams) helps a lot, for the quality of the rock and the beauty of the pitches it seems to be there
The first pitch starts immediately challenging (6c) with an initial portion of not very beautiful rock (the only slightly ugly rock on the route). Start on a plate that acts as a bow to the left of the yellows and goes straight up to a niche with a rotten cord (so far it protects itself with a couple of friends). From the niche you begin to traverse to the right, initially still climbing vertically (piton on gray crack) and then completely horizontally (two more pitons) until the belay. The key is well protected by the last piton before arriving at the belay.
The second pitch starts with a decisive horizontal traverse to the right up to a niche (excellent friend). From here you climb vertically (40m) on stratospheric rock (6c+, not even a passing piton)
Third pitch (6a) follows a series of holes and plates that are really only found in Ceuse. So also the fourth pitch that starts with a horizontal beam to the left and then 40 vertical meters.
These 3 central pitches are the most beautiful
The fifth pitch (7a) is tough but well protected by three pitons. The key is quite physical
The sixth pitch is the hardest (7a +) starts on good but distant holes where you have to decide well on which to insert the friend (good) and on which the fingers. Then follows the key step protected by two nails on an overhanging yellow corner with the hard step at the end to go to a gray blade overturned very high. From here the difficulties decrease until hanging before the belay where a precipitous crack will create many fright
With the seventh pitch you finally cross the Slovakia road where you reach a belay from where you can easily go down the “Filo delle Apparenze” route. The start of this pitch (6c) is the key. An hourglass protects the start from the ledge and with a few random steps on smears you get to an overhang with good holds that makes you catch your breath
The route would then continue with 3 more pitches (6b and V) which, however, are not so beautiful (according to the few repeaters) and it is convenient (as we did) to continue traversing to the right (V) up to the belay of Filo delle Apparenze where rappel begin
